When Hoi On Cafe, a beloved staple in the local dining scene, closed its doors, renowned designer and Hong Kong native Frank Leung saw a chance to preserve its legacy. Find out how the cafe's furniture made the journey from a cherished eatery to a dynamic workspace, enhancing the cultural tapestry of Hong Kong.
In the vibrant heart of Sheung Wan, the alluring aroma of classic HK-style comfort dishes filled the air at a cherished local eatery. Sitting at the bottom of a five-storey tong lau with an off-white façade, adorned with cherry-red Chinese characters of its name, Hoi On Cafe was one of the city’s oldest bing sutts — casual eateries celebrated for their informal charm and diverse menus. Remarkably, it had maintained its original location since its inception, weathering the tides of change brought by land reclamation and the encroachment of modern skyscrapers.
Frank Leung, founder of multidisciplinary design studio via., fondly recalled how this quaint cafe had become a second home for him and his colleagues during their working days. “Almost every day, we would pop over for breakfast, lunch, or sometimes even dinner,” he reminisced. “I loved the food, as well as its nostalgic atmosphere.”
Established in 1952, Hoi On had begun as a humble haven for dockworkers craving a refreshing iced coffee or a comforting milk tea by the sea. The story went that it was founded by a visionary who pioneered the bing sutt concept in Hong Kong during the early 1950s, later evolving into a family-run establishment under a devoted staff member. The cafe was marked by floor-to-ceiling glass doors, adorned with bold prints of its name, while a glass-fronted fridge filled with chilled beverages greeted patrons at the entrance.
On one side, an outdoor counter showcased an array of homemade, traditional Hong Kong treats. Inside, burgundy diner booths and wooden stools surrounded intimate tables, where diners enjoyed their favourite dishes under the gentle swirl of vintage ceiling fans. Despite its unpretentious decor, Hoi On radiated a welcoming warmth that made every guest feel instantly at ease. Over the years, Frank cultivated a close relationship with its owners, particularly the new generation that bravely stepped away from corporate paths to continue Hoi On’s legacy.
As the years passed, the connection between via. and the cafe deepened. Then one day, the owners decided it was time to close their doors permanently. Feeling the toll of long hours and believing they had honoured the legacy long enough, they chose to step back. They confided in only a select few regulars, hoping to keep the news low-key. Frank was among that trusted circle.
One day, as Frank was heading into the office, he received a call from the cafe owner. “Do you have a car or van with you today?” the owner asked. “Because if you do, we have a table, some stools, and a diner booth that nobody wants. You can come pick it up.” Ecstatic, Frank immediately booked a delivery van to collect the furniture.
At that time, via. was preparing for an office move. They too felt the changing seasons, a new beginning on the horizon. It was time for them to secure a larger space, and were in the midst of relocating from Sheung Wan to Kwun Tong, into a space more than double their original size. Thus, the furniture from Hoi On Cafe found its way into via.’s new workspace in Kwun Tong.
Now, it occupies a corner of the floor below the gallery level, nestled next to long wooden tables designated for casual town hall gatherings or lunchtime chats. This furniture is not merely decorative; it serves practical purposes as well. The diner booth, tucked into a cozy alcove, has even taken on a secondary role as a makeshift phone booth.
“What we have here in the office, leftover from the cafe, is just hardware,” Frank noted. “But what I miss most is the warmth of human connection.” The red, worn wooden tables and chairs now stand as poignant reminders of the vibrant stories and traditions that once unfolded within those walls. Today, as employees gather around these pieces, they see more than just furniture; they see a rich part of Hong Kong’s cultural tapestry, woven into the daily rhythm of their work life.
In an era dominated by sleek, modern designs, many still find solace in furniture that has witnessed the passage of time, especially when it comes from a beloved local spot or people they love. These remnants of Hoi On Cafe encapsulate the essence of community and the enduring charm of a place that has become a cherished part of the city’s identity. Each dent and scratch tells a story — of bustling lunch hours, late-night gatherings, and the connections forged over shared meals.
