Okinawa has always been a place of intrigue: azure oceans, hidden underground bases, and the secret to longevity. It joins Sardinia in Italy, Costa Rica, Icaria in Greece, and Loma Linda in the US as one of the world’s “Blue Zones” – regions renowned for exceptionally long lifespans.

This Japanese archipelago boasts an impressive concentration of centenarians, with roughly 68 out of every 100,000 residents reaching the mark. Some attribute it to local herbs, others to daily exercise or even the meditative act of gardening. But spend a little time on this island, and you’ll realise it’s not just about living longer; it’s about living better.

I landed at Halekulani Okinawa on a blustery afternoon. The weather was anything, but typical idyllic Okinawan postcard-perfect. But after the grey skies cleared, the view from the lobby was stunning: infinity pools cascading down to the beach, their vibrant blue a stark contrast against the now-clear sky. Some guests in the Orchid swimming pool, many of them locals, seemed unfazed by the fickle weather, perhaps accustomed to its whims or simply embracing the island’s easygoing flow.

Despite the occasional downpour, Okinawa enjoys sunshine and warm ocean breezes almost all-year-round, and the surroundings are crucial to the Halekulani experience.

Stretching across 32 acres along Onna Village’s beautiful coastline, this oceanfront resort (Halekulani’s first venture outside Hawaii, opened in 2019) offers 360 rooms, suites, and villas, including 45 plush suites and five exclusive villas. Each boasts floor-to-ceiling windows and a balcony with sweeping ocean views.

The ocean’s influence extends to the interior design – a thoughtfully pared-back aesthetic governed by “seven shades of white.” The energetic aloha spirit is seamlessly interwoven with delicate Japanese sensibilities, evident in the furniture crafted from natural materials. 

Infinity pools are dotted throughout the property, along with an onsen, all offering stunning ocean vistas. A winding path leads down to a mile-long pristine beach, and a sunset cruise – impressive even to a landlubber like myself – is also available. Then there’s SpaHalekulani and its hot spring – pure bliss.

With wellbeing front and centre, the resort offers what it calls the Blue Zone wellness retreat, which includes escapes to the karate paradise of Mabui, the historic Nanjo region of Umui, plant-forward cooking classes, ceramics classes, boat sailing and meditation, and traditional tea ceremonies.

“Our goal is to integrate the local cultural heritage into every aspect of the guest experience, and this is an ideal opportunity for us to share a piece of Okinawa with our visitors,” says the hotel’s general manager Jun Yoshie.

My suite boasted a commodious balcony, perfect for whiling away the afternoon lost in a book and the sounds of the waves. Yet, Halekulani isn’t just about relaxation – it’s a springboard to Okinawa’s rich cultural and historical tapestry, with Naha, the island’s vibrant commercial hub, just an hour’s drive away.

If you’ve spent any time in Okinawa, you’re familiar with “uchinaa time”, the island’s famously relaxed pace of life. A three-hour lunch at Irohatei is a case in point.

This unassuming, family-run spot, feels more like a friend’s home than a restaurant. A single host, also the chef, gracefully manages a handful of tables, dishes emerging one by one. 

Our tatami room, tucked away in the back, past charming knick-knacks and a serene courtyard, offered a welcome sense of privacy. Patience isn’t my forte, but this experience was a compelling reminder of how slowing down enhances life’s flavours. We talked longer and deeper, and the food tasted all the more exquisite. This was “hygge”, Japanese-style: humble, delicate, a quality reflected in the food.

Tofu is an Okinawan essential, found in dishes from appetisers to desserts. We sampled tofuyo (fermented tofu), champuru (stir-fried tofu), and jiimamii dofu (peanut tofu) – each unique in its own right.

Bitter melon and seaweed are also staples. Goya champuru and mozuku tempura are must-tries. While portions are small, the diversity of flavours is impressive, a testament to the Okinawan philosophy of nuchi gusui (medicine of life) – a simple, nutritious, and delicious approach to eating.

These humble ingredients even find their way into the finest dining experiences, as evidenced at Halekulani’s Shiroux. This French-Japanese fusion restaurant reimagines traditional Japanese ingredients through innovative techniques. The truffled Okinawan tofu, for one, was a revelation. Nearby, Aomi, another excellent Japanese restaurant, honours Okinawa’s rich culinary heritage with dishes that celebrate regional flavours and offer a modern twist.

For more casual fare, House Without a Key provides a charming setting for cocktails and light bites. Sunset Bar SPECTRA offers seriously creative cocktails – one even transitioned from blue to purple – along with an entertainment venue, a barbecue area, and a pool bar. Plenty of options to socialise and soak up the Halekulani atmosphere.

Breakfast at Halekulani is another highlight. You can choose from Western classics or a feast of traditional Japanese breakfasts at Shiroux, or enjoy a buffet at House Without a Key. But my absolute favourite was the Hawaiian-style pancakes: soft on the outside and fluffy on the inside, drizzled with a decadent hazelnut sauce so good that you don’t even need syrup.

It’s hard not to be charmed by Halekulani: the food, the design, the surroundings, and the staff. And with its wellness programme and balmy weather, the resort certainly lives up to the island’s reputation of longevity and happiness.