This Bill Bensley-designed glamping resort is designed to disappear into its surroundings.

Pemako Punakha is easy to miss –– so much as that even when you're looking for it, it’s hard to locate. Hidden on the banks of the Mo Chhu River and wrapped in lush greenery, this luxury tented retreat in Bhutan’s former capital—famous for its stunning mountains and rivers—remains elusive until you’re right on its doorstep.  

A true homegrown gem, Pemako Punakha, opened in 2023, is a relative newcomer to Bhutan’s growing collection of ultra-luxury resorts, as the kingdom gently opens its doors to the world.

To get to the hotel, you need to cross a dramatic suspension bridge that sways over the Mo Chhu River. Once you cross the bridge, a buggy awaits to take you on a short ride. There are no signs, no logos—just the feeling of venturing into a 5-star forest. Along the way, you pass a waterfall, a prayer wheel, and a choesum (altar) for blessings. Before you’ve even entered, the resort stirs curiosity and a sense of mystery, hallmarks of the famed American designer Bill Bensley.

The man behind luxury brands like Four Seasons, Rosewood, and Capella, Bensley brings his signature maximalism to Pemako Punakha. From the striking visual contrasts of the lobby and restaurant to dramatic light fixtures in the hallways and quirky yak sculptures in the suites, the resort is a feast for the senses. 

Arrival

Every guest is invited to participate in a chanting session upon arrival. The lobby is an interplay of orange and black: orange, in Buddhism, symbolizes the highest state of perfection, while black represents traditional Bhutanese homes, where firewood smoke stains the walls. Opposite the reception desk is a black feature wall lined with niches filled with stupa statues. Beyond the lobby, a serene podium directs guests to a hallway adorned with more choesum.

Each guest is assigned a dedicated butler who takes care of everything, including transportation within the property for a seamless stay.

Villas and Suites

The resort features 21 luxury tented villas, each offering private outdoor spaces, heated pools, and breathtaking valley views. The villas are connected by a winding hill road, creating a sense of seclusion and adventure.

My villa was just a short buggy ride from the restaurant. Moderate in size but brimming with character, the tent was filled with indigenous curios—yak dolls, traditional hats, and other charming details. Gilded trimmings, intricately decorated glassware, geometric patterns, and antiques added to the eclectic design. Even the snack box was a thoughtful touch—a bento box made of copper-finished containers that matched the glamping theme.

At the center of the suite was a massive bed, so large it could easily accommodate eight people my size. A cleverly hidden light switch behind the pillows meant you didn’t need to climb off the bed, which, trust me, could take a while, to turn off the lights. The bathroom was another highlight: a stunning copper bathtub took center stage, flanked by a standing shower and a separate toilet room. For those in the mood, a petal bath can be arranged.

Each villa also includes a spacious deck and an infinity pool. With the push of a button, the pool transforms into a jacuzzi, making it perfect for chilly winter nights.

Food and Beverages 

The resort offers three exceptional dining options: the Alchemy House, a traditional Bhutanese restaurant; Soma, an international all-day dining venue with both indoor and outdoor riverside seating; and The Five Nectars Bar, a stylish space with an outdoor deck overlooking the river. Beneath the bar lies a private dining room featuring a chef’s table and wine cellar.  

Dining at the Alchemy House is a step back in time. We were seated in a heritage-inspired setting where chefs prepared dishes in the most traditional manner, right before our eyes. The meal was exquisite, beginning with minced chicken accompanied by spicy chilli ezay, and scrambled cheese, egg, and butter, followed by a comforting bowl of Churu Jaju, a traditional Bhutanese soup. 

The main courses were a celebration of local cuisine, including dried Bhutanese red chilli with cheese and butter, millet pudding, buckwheat noodles, freshly caught fish, yak meat, and air-dried pork.  

My personal favourite, architecturally, was the Five Nectars Bar. Its double-height ceiling, adorned with suspended musical instruments, is nothing short of striking. The menu features expertly crafted cocktails alongside various types of Ara, a traditional Bhutanese spirit, many of which are brewed on-site at the hotel. 

Breakfast at the resort is yet another highlight. I always chose a corner table with views of the expansive deck and river beyond. The double-tiered stand of fresh fruit and pastries was an absolute delight. For those looking for something unique, the resort also provides picnic spots where meals are prepared and served outdoors in the fresh air.  

Other Activities  

After a full day of hiking, there’s no better way to unwind than at the Lotus Realm Spa. Drawing on the principles of Sowa Rigpa, Bhutan’s traditional system of medicine, the spa is all about restoring balance and harmony to both your mind and body. If you’re looking for a gentler start to the day, you can join a morning yoga session or recharge with a workout at the gym. For the more adventurous, rafting on the Mo Chhu River is available nearby. 

In a kingdom brimming with world-class luxury resorts, Pemako Punakha has done an incredible job of setting itself apart. It’s a place where nature, culture, and design come together, leaving you convinced you've witnessed Bhutan at its very best.