For as long as I can remember, I’ve had a love affair with Paris – especially with its pastries, chocolates, desserts, and everything else sweet and delectable. As a photographer and food writer, I’ve wandered endlessly in search of creative stimulation, adventure and something sweet in the lackadaisical manner of a flâneur – one who strolls around, simply observing. Through the boulevards and backstreets of temptation, let’s take a tour and explore some of the city’s most renowned purveyors of sweetness.
Our first stop is at the chocolate bar in the boutique of celebrated chocolatier Jean-Paul Hévin at the 1st arrondissement. Kick-start the day with a steaming cup of his chocolat chaud – choose from a whimsical menu, cleverly concocted with a selection of cocoas from around the world.
Fauchon is on the east side of L’église Sainte-Marie-Madeleine, which was designed originally as a temple for Napoleon’s army. This renowned landmark, with its tempting delicatessen and pastry counters, is a culinary adventure that offers some of the best macarons in Paris. But it’s the éclairs that we’ve come to try. If, like me, you have a serious choux fetish, the caramel éclairs are to die for – thick, velvety, luscious caramel crème filling is encased in a crispy pâte à choux.
The authentic, picturesque boulangerie Du Pain et Des Idées, in the backwaters of the hip Canal Saint-Martin neighbourhood, is run by baker extraordinaire Christophe Vasseur, whose string of awards befits one of the best boulangeries in France today. Go for his speciality viennoiseries, such as the pain au raisin adaptation he calls l’escargot chocolat pistache. Or try his chausson aux pommes (apple turnover); filled with a whole, fresh apple, the burst of flavour is amazing.
Modern tea salon and chocolate shop Jacques Genin is in the 3rd arrondissement’s Haut Marais. Named after the eponymous maestro, it’s considered one of the best chocolatiers in Paris. I’d opt for his unique caramel au beurre salé (salted caramels). Choose from passion fruit, mango, cinnamon or other adventurous taste combinations.
Saunter down the boutique-lined Rue Vieille-du-Temple and you’ll find pain de sucre in the food part of Rue Rambuteau. This adventurous patisserie with a cult following specialises in melt-in-your-mouth guimauve (marshmallow) as well as divine fruit tarts – but I’d elect to eat the wacky baba au rhum, which comes with a pipette of liquor sticking out the top.
Next up is Patrick Roger in the 6th arrondissement’s Boulevard Saint-Germain; this wild child of chocolate’s panache and ganache is equally sublime and outrageous. Patrick Roger’s outlandish creativity – think nude rugby players sculpted in chocolate – has given him a reputation as the top maître chocolatier in Paris today. Choose any number of his chocolate bars or bonbons.
In the 6th arrondissement is Pierre Hermé‘s heavenly boutique on the Rue Bonaparte, just opposite the Place Saint-Sulpice and its Fountain of the Four Bishops. Described as the Picasso of pastries and the Dior of dessert, Monsieur Hermé is the out-and-out master of edible art. Known best for his macarons with bizarre yet joyous flavour marriages (such as white truffle and hazelnut) that leave you literally gobsmacked, Hermé’s creations can only be described as creamy, crumbly mouthfuls of sheer indulgence.
Michael Paul’s Sweet Paris, published by Hardie Grant, is available on Amazon.
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